A Day on the Flying Scotsman
What a treat to spend a day on one of the world's most famous trains.
There was something magical about the elegant green engine gliding into Bristol Temple Meads Station. The smell of coal, the hiss of steam, and the majestic green paintwork of an iconic train. The Flying Scotsman is 100 years old and still manages to exude a timeless sense of majesty. As a celebratory experience, a ride on the famous train is an unforgettable experience, but the engineering and science behind the Flying Scotsman is remarkable.
The experience
When I first saw the Flying Scotsman glide into Bristol Temple Meads, I was in awe of the famous engine, puffing steam. The meticulous green paintwork, the glint of brass engineering instruments, and that timeless elegance took my breath away. The seating was comfortable and plush as we settled in for a four-hour journey to Cornwall. We’d been asked not to share timings to avoid trespass on the lines, and as we steamed through Bristol, the extent to which the train attracted crowds became clear.
People were on rooftops, leaning from windows, and at Yatton, the platform was full of people wanting a glimpse of the iconic train. As we steamed through the countryside, farmers paused their work, animals ran across fields wondering what the noise was, and people clung to vantage points. It was mesmerising and relaxing watching the world go by, fuelled by bacon rolls and strong coffee.
The climb outside Taunton felt effortless to passengers but required significant skill to climb the famous Whiteball Summit. Then, heading through Exeter, the Flying Scotsman passed the Dawlish sea wall and arrived in Plymouth. There was an opportunity to watch water being taken on board and to see the engine. However, the crowds were enormous. Everyone wanted to see or experience something.
Then, a highlight was crossing the Brunel Bridge into Cornwall, with people waving from the adjacent Tamar Bridge and Saltash. Steaming through the Cornish countryside, our destination was Par. Coaches took us to Charlestown for a couple of hours while the engine was turned at the famous turning table at St Blazey.
The journey back to Bristol steamed into the setting sun as we tucked into a cream tea and waved to people in fields, in car parks, at junctions, and on rooftops. It was dark when we reached Bristol, but the elegance of the Flying Scotsman still managed to impress at almost midnight. The journey brought back the pleasure of slow travel and the beauty of steam-driven power. I could get addicted to this mode of travel.
The Science
The Flying Scotsman was designed by Nigel Gresley and built in 1923 in Doncaster It weighs 97 tonnes. In 1928, it achieved fame by running non-stop between London and Edinburgh. It was also the world’s first steam locomotive to hit 100mph in 1934. Its engine is an LNER A1 Pacific-driven type, which means the wheel arrangement has four small wheels in front, known as driving wheels. A pony truck at the back supports the massive firebox where coal is burned to create steam from boiling water. Three steam cylinders support the engine. A two-to-one lever, invented by Harold Holcroft, operates the steam valves. Smoke deflectors take the smoke upwards and away from the driver’s sightlines. Although it has modern safety systems to drive on railways safely, the fundamentals of steam make it an engineering icon.
How to do it
All tickets for a Flying Scotsman journey must be pre-booked, and they usually sell out fast. I subscribed to the official mailing list and the Railway Touring Company, so I received details as soon as the journeys were announced and booked within a couple of days.
If you are celebrating a special occasion, book first or premier class. Not only will you be served refreshments, but the carriages are beautiful and befitting an anniversary or birthday celebration. The standard class is no frills, and although I’m always on the lookout for a bargain, I would have been disappointed with the basic carriage.
There is a bar on the train, and visitors are encouraged to use it and can also bring their own refreshments.